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Wednesday, February 11, 2015

San Francisco Full of Clichés But Still Magical


Visiting the seals at Pier 39

San Francisco is one of the most eclectic cities in the US, and it’s packed with far too many breathtaking things to see in only 4 days. Steve was attending a conference so I was on my own to explore.  However, we did have Monday morning together. Both of us have been several times before so it was fairly easy to narrow down our morning and my adventures for the rest of the week.

The first thing we did was grab a packed cable car, so we had to hang onto the outside, but that’s truly the best way of experiencing a cable car ride. You can see more because you don’t have anyone in front of you. We wandered the Fisherman’s Wharf and Pier 39 area and, of course, visited the seals, which is a must. Our stroll through Ghiradelli Square didn’t tempt us too much because we each had only one bite sized chocolate.

Main street of Chinatown
On previous visits, I had wandered the streets of Chinatown but never did much more than a tiny bit of shopping and hurrying past the dead ducks and other fowl hanging in the windows. This time I took a walking tour of Chinatown. Linda, our tour guide, is Chinese American and had grown up there, so she was able to give us an inside track on day-to-day experiences. 

One of the highlights was a visit to a Chinese pharmacy to see where the shelves were stocked with all sorts of weird and wonderful ingredients used in numerous remedies. A pre-packaged soup mix that Linda pointed out had a main ingredient of dried cicadas; we could see them through the clear wrapper. Oh, and later, when we visited the market there were basins of live frogs and turtles waiting to be purchased for dinner!!

Hand made fortune cookies
Another favorite was the fortune cookie factory, which I would never have found on my own. We had to walk down a very nondescript alley to find this tiny little space with only a small sign out front. While we were there, there was only one woman who was folding hot circles of pastry, inserting the fortunes and then folding them into the cookie shapes that everyone recognizes. We got to taste samples and also got to read some of the fortunes, including some of the “adult” fortunes (printed on pink paper).

After an enjoyable and educational tea-tasting, I walked to Old St. Mary’s Cathedral for a free noontime concert. I found it by accident, and it was an hour filled with stunning violin, cello and piano music. The performers, from Scotland and Russia, were so professional; I would gladly have paid $50 or more for a ticket.

Several hours were spent that afternoon wandering the Asian Art Museum. There were so many things to see, but my main purpose was to see the world’s oldest dated Buddha. It can be dated back to 338 according to an inscription at the base.  There are older Buddha statues, and I’m sure that Steve and I have seen plenty in China and Japan, but this one is actually dated!

Wednesday dawned foggy and gray, but I had a day trip planned to Sonoma and Napa Valley so I didn’t care what the weather was like. Our coach driver acted as a tour guide on the way to the first winery, and as we crossed the Golden Gate Bridge, he filled every moment with facts about it. It was good to be reminded of its’ history, and even though it’s one of the most photographed bridges in the world; I didn’t take a photo this trip.

Vines soaking up the sun
We visited 3 different wineries, not only learning about the history of wine making in California but learning about the different methods of growing the grapes. The Nicholson Ranch Winery was our first stop, and the fog was just starting to lift so that we could see the vines off in the distance. After a brief history and a little tour of this family-owned artisan winery, our first tasting began at 10.30.

Our second stop was the Madonna Estate where we learned about their organically grown grapes and the “dry farming” of the vines,  meaning they only rely on the natural rainfall to water the vines. The winery combines traditional and modern techniques of making the wine, so we saw both oak and steel barrels.

Oak barrels
The whites
After the two morning tastings, we stopped at a lovely little town for some much-needed lunch. Eating lunch while sitting  in the warm 70° F sunshine was perfect but soon we were headed to another winery. Our third and final winery for the day was the Sutter Home Winery. Most of us already knew about Sutter Home’s White Zinfandel but we also learned that it was discovered by accident when one of the family members was told to “not waste a drop”. Some of the juice from their premium Zinfandel red wine was bled off before fermentation. This juice was fermented separately into a dry almost white wine. The winery was established in the 1800’s, and it has become the second largest, independent family-run winery in the US.

Trees reach the sky!
Thursday dawned foggy and gray again, but this morning I was off to see Muir Woods. It’s less than an hour from San Francisco and the drive to the park is up a very windy steep road.  The park is where you can see giant redwood trees - not the ginormous ones that you see in Sequoia National Park. Still very impressive, it’s a stunningly beautiful, quiet and calm hike through these giants.

I had the option of returning to San Francisco on the bus or taking a ferry from Sausalito. I chose the ferry so the bus dropped me at the wharf on its’ way back. I had an hour to wait for the ferry, so I sat and soaked up the sun. The weather was perfect, and the ferry ride gave me views of Alcatraz, the Golden Gate Bridge, downtown San Francisco and the surrounding hills. I was so thrilled that I had chosen to take the ferry back – it definitely beat sitting on a coach for another hour!
Alcatraz Island

San Francisco has always been one of my favorite cities and this trip just added to the magic!

More photos can be found at this link